The Good Good had been on my radar ever since a friend told me they have his favorite fried chicken in Harlem, a bold statement to say the least. The small eatery flew even higher up my New York restaurant bucket list after dining at The Edge in early 2024, a restaurant owned by sisters Justine and Juliet Masters, who co-own The Good Good with Lesly Bernard.

I strutted down 119th in my new oversized fur coat on a chilly Friday night and finally made my way into the cozy restaurant. Upon first glance, the restaurant appears to have more of a cocktail bar feel. The lights are dim with a moody orange hue, and the decor inside is immaculate and tasteful. I wanted to slide into a booth and stay a while, so I did and ordered a cocktail.

I opted for a negroni made with Ten to One Rum, Amaro Montenegro, and Lillet Blanc. The drink wound up being such a smash hit for me that it has since become my go-to winter cocktail; I promptly purchased a bottle of Amaro Montenegro after my visit. It’s good to know that if I find myself back in the area on another chilly night, drinks are served until midnight.

Incredible cocktails aside, I came with a roaring appetite. While I knew I’d be ordering the fried chicken, I was excited at the prospect of the menu being split into “earth,” “surf,” and “turf,” with earth being veggie-forward (minus the addition of bacon in one dish), surf being seafood-forward, and turf being meat-forward.

Since cocktails and fried chicken were inevitable, I thought I could balance it all with some veggies from the “earth” portion of the menu. I ordered the candied yams, the sautéed seasonal greens and the jerk mushrooms for some spice.

The veggies came out fairly quickly, and with the three I ordered, the portions would have been enough for a complete meal. The yams were cut into thick, steak-like circles and topped with pickled shallots. My first bite led me to a crunchy, sweet, caramelized exterior, followed by a tender interior. The yams are roasted, then tossed in potato starch and fried. Immediately after they’re fried, they are tossed in honey and topped with a peri peri drizzle, pickled Fresno chiles, pickled shallots and herbs. The preparation gives the yams a crunch that could rival fried chicken.

The other standout was the jerk mushroom dish. Like many people, as much as I love fungi, I can get quickly weirded out by the texture, so ordering an entire plate of them is not something I’d usually do, unless as a side at a steakhouse. Texture wasn’t an issue at The Good Good, though. They really don’t shy away from the jerk factor here, and the spice is balanced by the addition of sweetened coconut. Despite coming to eat fried meat, I found The Good Good to be a great option for plant-based diners.

Before my beloved fried chicken arrived, it was time for another cocktail. This time, I opted for a raspberry lemon drop, made with Barr Hill gin, muddled raspberries, creme de framboise, and lemon juice. Just like I’m a sucker for an aesthetically pleasing colorful coat, I am equally a sucker for a pretty pink cocktail, especially if it’s just the right balance of tart and sweet like this one was.

As I sipped cocktail No. 2 on my annual “treat yourself” day, my fried chicken, which can be found on the menu as Hot Honey Fried, arrived.

Do you know how you sometimes will know a dish is going to be good just by looking at it? I might have cried a little happy tear when I saw the glisten of the chicken, thanks to its hot honey glaze. Having eaten at many of the fried chicken mainstays of Harlem, I have to say I agree with my friend: The Good Good’s fried chicken is my personal favorite in the neighborhood. The kick from the hot honey, which can be attributed to fatalii, a chili from Central Africa, paired with the incredibly crispy breading makes for a seriously great bite.

While I’d 100% recommend the fried chicken, what surprised me most about The Good Good were their veggie dishes, especially those roasted yams. Safe to say, whether it’s a cocktail, a vegetable dish or some fried chicken, whatever you order here is going to be good good (sorry, I couldn’t resist).

• Address: 1694 Park Ave, New York, NY 10035
• Phone: (917) 409-0103
• Hours: Monday-Thursday 5 p.m.-12 a.m.; Friday: 5 p.m.-1 a.m.; Saturday 11 a.m.-1 a.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.-12 a.m.
• Prices: Earth: $10-$22; Surf: $15-$29; Turf: $26-$48
• Takeout available, no delivery; reservations via Resy.

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New York is fortunate to have a variety of Japanese restaurants that can really hold their own, with 19 having at least one Michelin star, and one (Masa) even holding the restaurant guide’s elusive three-star rating. Speaking of Michelin stars, the small Nolita izakaya subject to today’s review is owned by chef Daisuke Nakazawa of one Michelin-star Sushi Nakazawa.

While Saito might not have a Michelin star — at least not yet — they do have, in my humble opinion, one of the best Japanese menus in the city. Japanese cuisine shines in its simplicity and freshness, and Saito has a no-frills approach to highlighting ingredients as they are while keeping the atmosphere playful and unpretentious.

That brings me right to the bluefin tuna rib, or bluefin tuna nakaochi. As the name suggests, this dish is quite literally a tuna rib, bone and all. It is served raw, alongside an empty clamshell and some nori sheets as utensils for eating this unique take on Japanese tuna. I brought a friend with me to split the delicate piece of fish, and we got some accompaniments to match.

We started with the grilled shishito peppers. In addition to the bluefin tuna nakaochi, we ordered two taco-style hand rolls  — one tuna and one amberjack — and a sashimi assortment for two. At the very last minute, we added the Washu beefsteak.

The shishito peppers were easy to snack on with a nice hit of salt thanks to both the crystalized soy sauce and dried bonito flakes. The taco-style hand rolls are perfectly fine, and I had a fond appreciation for the crispness of the nori sheets that served as the “taco shell.” That said, if you’re going to order sashimi and the bluefin tuna nakaochi, I would say they’re not entirely necessary.

As for the tuna rib, it’s fairly priced at $32. It truly looks massive on the plate — the bone is quite tall and gives the nakaochi a dramatic height. It’s one of the most showstopping dishes I’ve seen in quite some time, and what I love about it is that’s it’s not trying to be anything more than what it is: raw tuna on a rib. But with its naturally bright pink meat and exposed bone contrasting with the black plate, this dish is bound to turn every head in the restaurant when it comes out.

You’re given the clamshell to scoop the tuna meat right off the bone. I am a big fan of playing with my food, so I was giddy like a schoolgirl at this prospect. As I scooped, I was surprised to see the meat does not go as deep as the rib’s massive size would have you think; it’s actually quite a thin piece of tuna. I tried the first bite without any soy sauce or nori. The meat is melt-in-your-mouth tender, perhaps because it’s so close to the bone. The taste is mild and delicate. With the addition of nori and just a small hit of soy and wasabi, I could’ve popped a good amount in my mouth, like potato chips or popcorn, no problem.

Washu (or Washugyu) is a cut of beef that comes from cattle that have never been treated with growth hormones. I’ve admitted over here at NYC Hidden Dining Gems that I really don’t get the hype around steak. I seldom order it and would choose a burger or even a slice of pizza over a steak any day. I can now confidently say that’s because I’ve never had Washu before.

While I came for the tuna rib, the Washugyu was my favorite bite at Saito by a long shot. It’s so perfectly tender, with edges scored in a way that really allowed all of that marbled fat to render, creating a bite that can best be described as caramelized, buttery meat. The menu reads “market price,” but ours only came to $38. To get a steak that tender for such a good deal, especially when I’ve paid more for a burger in New York, ensures I’ll be coming back to Saito again and again.

My final verdict on Saito is that while the tuna rib is what got me through the door, the Washugyu is what will keep me coming back.

• Address: 72 Kenmare St, New York, N.Y. 10012
• Phone: (646) 590-2969
• Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; closed Sundays and Mondays
• Prices: Appetizers: $6-$13; Crispy Rice: $10-$18; Sashimi: $9-$32; Taco-Style Hand Roll: $6-$20; From the Land: $23-MP; From the Ocean: $18-$32; Rice and Noodle: $18-$35; Dessert: $6
• No takeout, no delivery; reservations accepted.

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Favorite overall gems

Out of all of the places I’ve covered this year, these are some of my favorites:

Bolivian Llama Party

In reflecting on my best eats for 2024, I quickly transport to the many days I spent strolling the streets of Sunnyside, Queens. I’ve covered Mexican breakfasts, Salvadoran pupusas and innovative pizzerias, yet no eatery quite stole my heart the way Bolivian Llama Party did.

Known for their salteñas — the official “dumpling” of Bolivia, resembling an empanada filled with a soupy, meaty filling — it surprisingly wasn’t these tasty handheld treats that left the biggest mark on me. It was the sopa de mani, or peanut soup. It’s nutty, velvety and creamy (despite being dairy-free), with a slight crunch thanks to a topping of truffled potato sticks. I also loved the fried chicken sandwich, which is best with dollops of llajua, their official hot sauce. I try not to pick favorites, but when I think back on all of the incredible things I ate this year, Bolivian Llama Party immediately comes to the forefront of my mind as the best.

Address: 44-14 48th Ave., Sunnyside, N.Y. 11377

The Lonesome Club

I love when a place can challenge my misconceptions about a cuisine, and when it comes to stereotypical “bland” food, British or Irish comes to mind. However, when I saw on Google Maps a restaurant that serves true Irish cooking instead of the drunken pub fare I’ve been exposed to, I made the trek out to Windsor Terrace to try The Lonesome Club for myself.

The Irish soda bread was my first bite there. After shamelessly dunking the fluffy bread into butter, I realized I was in for typical Irish fare prepared in a way I had never experienced: soupy chicken potpie, creamy shepherd’s pie and crispy fish and chips, but the standout was the cucumber salad, with thick hunks of both cucumber and sharp cheddar swimming in a minty, herbaceous dressing.

Address: 1674 10th Ave., Brooklyn, N.Y. 11215

Pavé

The Irish soda bread from The Lonesome Club isn’t the only bread that blew my mind this year. I stumbled into Pavé, a small French bakery with a minty blue exterior, by happenstance during a disgruntled visit to Times Square. Entering the unassuming French bakery reminded me there are great hidden gems even in the busiest and most oversaturated parts of the city.

This small French bakery serves up simple but flawlessly executed French bread, and the jambon beurre sandwich here, served with a thick slathering of butter, grainy mustard and ham on a crusty baguette, reigns as my favorite sandwich of the year.

Address: 20 W. 46th St., New York, N.Y. 10036

Favorite new gems

There have been plenty of restaurant openings this year, but here are the ones that stood out to me:

NoMad Diner

Located in the back of the Arlo NoMad hotel, NoMad Diner, which opened in May, takes elements of a classic diner and gives them an elevated twist. For example, why eat plain old scrambled or sunny-side up eggs when you could have green shakshuka steeped in a spicy, vibrant zhoug-based sauce?

While the spicy shakshuka did steal my heart, it was edged out by NoMad Diner’s disco fries. Completely covered in chicken gravy, thin cut fries are dolloped with creamy Gournay herb cheese, making for a messy but seriously delicious plate of potatoes. If you want to take the cheese factor a step further, take my advice and order a Parmigiano Reggiano martini.

Address: 11 E. 31st St., New York, N.Y. 10016 (inside the Arlo NoMad)

PB Brasserie Steak House

I didn’t tell you about this one yet, but my favorite new opening this year has to go to PB Brasserie Steak House, which opened in September. Run by Chef Elhadji Cisse of Ponty Bistro, this sprawling space on 125th St. is like a traditional French brasserie with some Senegalese spice.

I would be a happy camper with just their fries dipped in their Senegalese hot sauce, but a visit here deserves much more love than that. The moules Africana is like a Thai curry with an extra kick. Mussels swim in a rich coconut milk sauce with chunks of red onions, garlic and lemongrass, creating an aromatic and sinus-cleansing dish that’s ideal for winter. The mac and cheese is coated with buttery bubbly cheese and is just as comforting for these colder months.

Address: 60 W 125th St., New York, N.Y .10027

Tucci

As an avid fan of Delmonico’s, I was excited when the steakhouse’s owner, Max Tucci, announced in March he’d given his name to a new project. An entirely different experience from Delmonico’s (while still holding on to that classy, old-school charm), Tucci is an Italian restaurant in NoHo with a brightly lit upstairs dining space and a moody, sexy downstairs with decorative nods to Tuscany.

I ordered baked clams oreganata, cacio e pepe e tartufo, casarecce alla boscaiola and chicken parmesan with smoked vodka sauce. My Tucci date and I agreed the two standouts were the casarecce, with perfectly chewy pasta and hot Italian sausage swimming throughout, along with the massive chicken parmesan, which was pounded thin with a nice ratio of smoky sauce and stringy mozz.

It might be a bold move to open an Italian restaurant in 2024 when the city is overflooded with them, but Tucci holds its own among some of New York’s finest, proving there’s still space for newcomers when done right.

Address: 643 Broadway, New York, N.Y. 10012

Favorite classic gems

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. These are the classic gems I’ve finally dined at this year, which are simply timeless.

Eddie’s Sweet Shop

The only thing I love more than a Hidden Dining Gem is a Hidden Dining Gem with a good backstory. Few establishments in New York hold history quite as rich as Eddie’s Sweet Shop. I finally made my way to the old-school Forest Hills, Queens, ice cream shop this year, which just so happens to be the oldest ice cream parlor in the City of New York.

Even if you stepped inside without knowing this, there’s something naturally nostalgic about Eddie’s, with its rickety barstools, tiled floors and bustling employees. Their menu is as straightforward as it gets, with a rotation of classic ice cream flavors. I went for a chocolate and mint sundae, and felt like a kid again as I ate the sweet treat while spinning on my barstool.

Address: 105-29 Metropolitan Ave. #1, Forest Hills, N.Y. 11375

Rocco Steakhouse

When it comes to special occasions, there’s no better place than a New York steakhouse. On one celebratory night this year, I made my way to Rocco Steakhouse at their OG location on Madison Ave. Rocco Steakhouse has all of that classic steakhouse charm, with white tablecloths, martinis and bottles of wine found on nearly every table; the natural sounds of silverware clinking and people laughing over loud conversation, and old-school waiters running around with a playful yet slightly sassy attitude.

I started with the clams on the half shell and some sizzling Canadian bacon. While I’m happy I ordered more (like the porterhouse for two and nearly every dessert), if I had stopped at the clams, bacon and my glass of sauvignon blanc, it would have been enough of a reason for me to return. The clams are meaty, drowning in garlicky breadcrumbs and so much butter it feels naughty, and the extra thick-cut bacon’s char adds the right amount of texture to the fatty cut of meat.

Address: 72 Madison Ave., New York, N.Y. 10016

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Opened in November 2023, Swoony’s is a newcomer that seems to be making waves in the neighborhood. I went on a Friday night at 8:30 p.m. and learned I’m not the only one who had received a recommendation; the place was nearly full.

Run by chef Sal Lamboglia, who also owns Cafe Spaghetti just down the street, Swoony’s was conceptualized to have more of a casual atmosphere than his first restaurant.

“I really wanted to open a restaurant in the neighborhood that felt like more of a night out, but still being really approachable and fun,” chef Sal tells me when I asked what inspired the opening of Swoony’s. “Something a little more special occasion, but a place where you could also pop in and grab a burger and a beer.”

I started with the deviled eggs ($9), the whipped goat cheese ($14) and the clams casino ($17), because just like a burger, if any type of baked clams are on a menu, I’m ordering them.

The deviled eggs were my favorite bite of the three, with a subtle sweetness from the caramelized onion and pops of trout roe for a bright, fun element. The whipped goat cheese had a nice texture due to being topped with chili crunch and was accompanied by cucumbers and grilled sourdough. The clams casino, despite my adoration for baked clams, was a little too heavy on the breadcrumbs, and didn’t have anything particularly memorable about them. Next time, I’d skip them and try the tuna crudo with toasted brioche for my seafood appetizer instead.

Moving onto the main course, the burger was the driving factor in going to Swoony’s, so I hardly needed to look at the menu. I did anyway, and suddenly I felt compelled to order the short rib au poivre instead. After a bit of battle with myself, I stuck with my original plan and ordered the burger.

The Swoony’s burger ($25) is a double patty with thousand island dressing and American cheese on a Portuguese muffin, served with a heaping pile of fries. The muffin appears to be flat, but is slightly leavened, with a light exterior and slightly darker center. The best comparison is if an English muffin and a buttery brioche had a bread baby. I cut the burger in half and, upon taking a bite, I was hit with an oozing of American cheese that made this burger cozy, nostalgic and comforting.

Despite having never had a Portuguese muffin before, I was surprised by how much I liked it as a burger vessel. The bread was sturdy enough to hold the burger intact, but felt less dense than a typical burger bun. It wasn’t just the bun and the cheese, though. The meat also delivered: juicy with patties that weren’t too thick.

I’ve reviewed dozens of burgers in the city: Southwest burgers with green chiles, Korean-fusion burgers, hole-in-the-wall burger joints in Queens, you name it. I can confidently say that the one at Swoony’s easily falls into my top ten burgers in New York, largely attributed to the comforting American cheese and the unique bun.

After my visit, Giovanna Cucolo, managing partner in charge of front-of-house operations and the wine list, told me the burger is indeed a bestseller, but the short rib au poivre is a second runner-up. This confirmed my gut instinct to go for the burger was right, but now I need to come back to see if the short rib au poivre holds up to the hype, too.

The food isn’t the only aspect of Swoony’s where great care and detail is given. The bar program, run by bar manager Ricardo Echeverri, includes lower-ABV offerings with a focus on local producers. Plus, Giovanna’s natural wine list keeps offerings unique, with most bottles under $100.

I’m going to make a bold statement, but Swoony’s further proves my theory that Carroll Gardens and its general surrounding area is up there with Jackson Heights as one of the best foodie neighborhoods in New York. I’m personally grateful for another welcoming, delicious and unpretentious addition to the neighborhood.

• Address: 215 Columbia St, Brooklyn, NY 11231
• Phone: (718) 207-3686
• Hours: Monday-Saturday 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Closed Sundays
• Prices: Snacks: $7-$10; Starters: $13-$21; Salads: $10-$16; Seconds: $25-$36; Sides: $8-$11; Desserts: $8-$12
• Delivery and takeout available; reservations accepted.

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My visit to Fedoroff’s had me questioning what really constitutes a hidden dining gem? I’ve been going to Fedoroff’s for years, and I’ve seen them in the news once or twice. To me, Fedoroff’s is a New York institution. But with its storefront quietly tucked away on North 10th St. in a particularly busy part of Williamsburg, it certainly still feels like a best-kept secret.

The magic is in the details. Despite the space being tiny in typical New York fashion  — I’d compare its dimensions to a spacious hallway — the 12-seat shop is plastered with South Philly posters and photos. Makes sense, since that’s where owners Dave and Stella Fedoroff hail from. When they moved to New York, they couldn’t find a proper Philly cheesesteak, so they made one themselves. They started selling their cheesesteaks at Smorgasburg, and in 2016, Fedoroff’s Roast Pork opened a brick-and-mortar shop.

Fedoroff’s Roast Pork serves Pennsylvania Dutch birch beer, a Pennsylvania staple similar to root beer, but still entirely its own thing. They use USDA prime steak from Creekstone Farms, which is sliced fresh in house every day, and the bread for their sandwiches comes from Parisi Bakery right here in New York. All recipes are their own, from the hearts and souls of two South Philly natives.

As for the food, I obviously had to go for a cheesesteak, which I’ve had many times at Fedoroff’s. The classic cheesesteak here is stuffed to the max inside a soft yet sturdy roll, topped with cheese whiz and onions. There’s no way to eat this thing in a demure fashion; she is one messy sandwich. It’s a salty, decadent masterpiece with a touch of texture and sweetness from the onions. It’s safe to say you should not come to Fedoroff’s for a first date.

In addition to the classic cheesesteak, I finally took the time to try their roast pork sandwich on this visit. It is in the name, after all. The Italian sandwich is made with 14-hour roasted pork, broccoli rabe and provolone cheese. It’s got a nice kick to it, but in a city where Italian sandwiches are found on every block, my preference here is definitely the cheesesteak. There’s just nothing in New York like it.

If you do brave bringing friends with you to witness getting cheese whiz all over your face, you’ll want to grab an order of Bronson fries to split. The fries here are cooked in pure lard, and the Bronson fries are Philly cheesesteak in potato form, piled with steak, cheese, onions and peppers. Even better for sharing is their catering option of a 26-inch sandwich, perfect for football season.

It’s definitely not the lightest of fare, but if you find yourself hungry in Williamsburg and are sick of the overpriced brunch spots and want something simple and delicious, Fedoroff’s Roast Pork is one of the finest frill-less options in the neighborhood.

• Address: 178 North 10th St, Brooklyn, N.Y. 11211
• Phone: No phone number
• Hours: Monday-Sunday 10 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
• Prices: Sandwiches: $18.95-$23.95; Fries: $3.95-$8.95; Catering (26-inch sandwich): $69
• Delivery and takeout available; no reservations.

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Located right beneath the Spanish Benevolent Society, the oldest Spanish cultural institution in the U.S., La Nacional is an unsuspecting, easy-to-miss eatery on one of New York’s busiest streets. The Spanish Benevolent Society was founded in 1868 by Spanish immigrants in New York who wanted a social center where all Spanish immigrants could have access to resources.

In 2018, they opened La Nacional, a restaurant that pays homage to traditional Spanish cooking. Concealed amid the chaos of 14th St., La Nacional is far more than just a hidden dining gem; it’s a hidden slice of history, too.

I swung by on a Saturday afternoon to try their brunch menu and also experience some of the offerings on their traditional menu. I started with the huevos rotos, or broken eggs, a dish with origins all the way back to 1612. Our server asked if I wanted to add jamon serrano, to which I answered yes.

Shortly thereafter, a small bowl of two fried eggs crowned with deep pink meat appeared before me. The server handed me two spoons and encouraged me to mix. As I poked the white eggs, bright orange yolks oozed out, completely coating the thinly sliced potatoes that lay beneath the surface. The huevos rotos at La Nacional are simple; I mean, it’s potatoes, eggs, and ham, but its beauty stems from its pure simplicity. The potatoes are delicate yet still sturdy enough to survive the unctuous egg yolk, and the meat added a nice salty component that made it complete. I would love to say their huevos rotos are a great hangover food, but you don’t need a rough night as an excuse to consume them.

La Nacional doesn’t have one specific owner and is instead community-run. However, the kitchen is led by Chef Francisco Javier Parreño, who goes by Chef Paco. He started his culinary career at age 15 in Spain, and now, with over 25 years in the business, diners at La Nacional can watch him do what he does best thanks to the open-style kitchen.

I was excited for the “Tabla Mixta,” or chef’s selection of mixed meats and cheeses, and while it was fantastic with additions like Chorizo Iberico and Queso Manchego, the real shining elements of La Nacional are in the properly cooked cuisine by Chef Paco.

That’s not to say you can’t get your cheese fix — the Macarrones con Sobrasada is a bowl of cheesy pasta that I’ll gladly come back to La Nacional for next time I need a warm, comforting dish. Think manchego mac and cheese with sobrasada, a Mallorcan delicacy made of cured sausage and paprika. The sobrasada adds a red hue and deep, slightly smoky flavor.

It’s just wrong to go to any Spanish restaurant and not order paella, a dish with origins in Chef Paco’s native Valencia. La Nacional has a few options, including verduras (artichokes, peppers, green squash, and butterbeans), mixta (shrimp, mussels, calamari and chicken) and negra (squid ink with shrimp, mussels and squid). I opted for paella di marisco, made with shrimp, mussels and calamari.

The menu states a small order of paella only feeds two, but that’s perhaps if you don’t order other plates; the dish is massive. The crispy socarrat — the burned rice layer on the bottom of paella — combined with the tender squid and mussels is textural perfection.

Finally, I needed something sweet, so I ended my meal with torrija and fresh berries, which is only available on the brunch menu. While its closest resemblance is to that of French toast, the menu exclusively states, “Please don’t call it French toast,” so I’ll refrain, and let you figure it out. The torrija dish is made of thick slices of toast that are dipped in egg and cream, and pan-fried in olive oil. They’re then stacked high and served with berries, cream and covered in crunchy turbinado sugar.

La Nacional is a perfect spot to grab a bite with friends or family, as all plates are meant to be shared. While they are open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday, their brunch won me over specifically for the huevos rotos, so I’d recommend a Saturday or Sunday afternoon visit instead.

• Address: 239 W 14th St., New York, N.Y. 10011
• Phone: (917) 388-2888
• Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 4 p.m.-10 p.m.; Friday 4 p.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday noon-11 p.m.; Sunday noon-9 p.m.; Closed Mondays
• Prices: Brunch: $8-$18 (option for bottomless drinks for $19.95); Our Classics: $9-$16; Light Fare: $9-$15; Tablas: $10-$28; La Nacional Originals: $10-$15; Paellas and Fideuas: $38-$63; Arroces: $26; Tierra y Mar: $16-$36; Desserts: $9
• No takeout, no delivery; reservations accepted via OpenTable.

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If you’re wondering whether it’s really worth it to trek all the way to the Rockaways for Italian food when the options in New York are seemingly endless, the answer is yes — yes, it is.

Going to the Rockaways in the winter is one of my favorite pastimes and I’d encourage you to do the same — it’s like having the best beach in New York to yourself. Don’t forget to give yourself a gold star for supporting local businesses that dare to stay open year-round.

Rocco’s of Roc Beach is owned by Joanne and Vincent Cotrone. The couple wanted to fill a gap they felt was lacking on the Peninsula: a homey, old-school Italian joint. Thus, in May 2021, Rocco’s of Roc Beach was born. The eatery’s Italian-born chef Bruno makes everything from scratch — the bread, pasta, mozzarella, gelato, you name it.

I popped into Rocco’s of Roc Beach on a chilly Tuesday night and was shocked to see how busy it was, even in the off-season. Since I made the trek all the way down there, I wanted to try a wide variety of dishes despite dining alone. I started with Rocco’s salad (lettuce, provolone, salami, olives, tomatoes, onions and banana peppers), followed shortly by a Diavola Rosso pizza, made with fresh mozzarella, Parmigiano, Calabrian chili and hot soppressata.

Both my server and Vincent (who goes by Vinny) encouraged me to order a pie. Not only were they voted the best pizza in Queens by the Queens Chamber of Commerce in 2023, but they’re home to the only coal brick oven in the Rockaways.

I had a fond appreciation for the house salad having proper cubes of sharp provolone mixed throughout, but it goes without saying I had more exciting dishes ahead. The pie is easily large enough to share between three people and the crisp crust made evident the coal brick oven. The mix of Calabrian chili and spicy soppressata made this heat aficionada one happy camper without sending her over the edge. What I especially appreciated was that they didn’t skimp on the meat toppings, and the $21 price was a friendly reminder I wasn’t in Manhattan anymore.

After a slice of ‘za, I saved room for the main event: the chicken parm. And not just any chicken parm, but a chicken vodka cutlet Parmigiana served alongside house-made rigatoni. Call it a simple change, but the swap of traditional marinara for vodka sauce somehow took my last-meal-worthy dish and made it even better.

Don’t tell the local Italian joint from my hometown, but Rocco’s of Roc Beach might just be the exact chicken parm dish I request when my time is up. It was covered in a blanket of bubbly mozzarella and had a cheese pull so intense that it made me wish someone was at the table with me solely so they could bear witness to the beauty I was seeing. The chew of the homemade pasta, which was cooked al dente and coated in vodka sauce, was the perfect accompaniment. I got through about half of the massive portion before waving a white flag, but I was excited at the prospect of having leftovers.

My server then convinced me to order dessert and, wanting to try the house-made gelato, I wasn’t a hard sell. I went for pistachio gelato and an espresso martini. You’re likely going to be full after any meal at Rocco’s, but don’t skip the gelato. It’s as creamy as it is on the streets of Florence or Rome. At one point, I took a spoonful of the pistachio gelato and added it to my espresso martini for a self-made boozy affogato. Maybe they should add it to the menu and call it the Kaitlyn special.

But Rocco’s is not just chicken parm, homemade pastas and award-winning pizza. The eatery has an expansive menu, with veal dishes, spicy shrimp rigatoni and even pecorino pasta tossed in a cheese wheel. What makes Rocco’s a standout in a sea of Italian restaurants in New York is the service, which takes you back to the old red sauce joints of yore.

“Rocco’s slogan is ‘Welcome to the family!’” says Vinny Cotrone. “And when you dine here, you will understand why.”

• Address: 115-10 Rockaway Beach Blvd, Rockaway Park, NY 11694
• Phone: (718) 799-5050
• Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 12 p.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 12 p.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday 12 p.m.-9 p.m.; Closed Monday
• Prices: Pizza: $16-$30; Appetizers: $13-$22; Steak & Chop: $32-MP; Entrée Chicken: $24-$26; Entrée Veal: $28; Entrée Fish: $29-$35; Eggplant Parm: $22; Sides: $8-$15; Kids Menu: $10-$12; Desserts: $8.50-$14
• Delivery and takeout available; for reservations, call the restaurant.

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Even from the outside, I knew I was in for a treat. The Original Crab Shanty looks from the outside like a chain restaurant in suburban America. Yet, unlike a chain restaurant in suburban America, there’s nothing quite like it, especially in New York City.

As I entered the premises around 2 p.m. on a Sunday, I was greeted by colorful and endearingly tacky decor with a bustling crowd to match. Riding out further on the escapism train, I impulsively ordered a mai tai. I was on an island, after all.

I sat down with Sharon, the manager of The Original Crab Shanty for 46 years, which is impressive considering they’ve only been open for 47. I immediately like her demeanor. She told me she was in sweatpants because she got sprayed by a sprinkler, though it’s unclear why a sprinkler was on in October. If only she knew the Daily News was coming in today, she joked.

The menu is quite expansive, and as I took my time scanning over the seemingly endless options, I was given a massive loaf of golden garlic bread. As I tore into it, Sharon told me people come strictly for the garlic bread, and I understand why. I realized my decision to come to City Island alone was well worth it for that moment — I got the whole loaf to myself.

I finally made a decision and went for the fried calamari ($14.99) and the “Crabby clams,” ($20.99), which are crab-stuffed clams.

The calamari came out quickly, and had a light, airy breading, almost like a hybrid of cornmeal and tempura. But let’s not get it twisted — I was here to try crab. When my crabby clams arrived, I was immediately surprised by the massive portion. These clams must have frequented the gym; they were meaty. The half dozen clams each had a mountain of plump crab meat that was chopped and mixed with the clam itself, and the oily sauce with bits of herbs and spices made for a luscious, buttery bite. The breadcrumbs on top felt naturally homey and warm.

I am fortunate to eat a lot of great food for both my job and out of sheer personal desire to constantly seek out good eats in New York, and yet, the crabby clams were one of the best bites I’ve had in a good while, really leaving their mark in my memory. It felt like eating at grandma’s house — if grandma’s house was by the ocean — and it transformed my sunny October day into an endless summer.

While I would gladly order the crabby clams again and again, next time I think I’ll also go for some snow crab legs, or perhaps I will bring a friend to split that garlic bread with, along with an order of the “A Banquet for Crab Lovery,” ($131.99) a feast of Maryland-style crab cakes, hardshell garlic crabs, stuffed Dungeness crab, soft-shell crabs and snow crab legs.

The Original Crab Shanty also serves plenty of seafood pastas, fried appetizers like buffalo wings and mozzarella sticks, oysters, a full raw bar, and some nonseafood options like prime rib, chicken parm and filet. If you don’t have time to dine in, there’s a takeout window.

“I don’t have a view, I don’t have tablecloths, but I have the best food and best prices in City Island,” Sharon tells me. “I make up for it.”

City Island manages to stay one of New York’s best kept secrets. Those who know, know, and those who don’t are missing out. But if you need any motivation to go, let The Original Crab Shanty be the driving factor.

• Address: 361 City Island Ave., Bronx, N.Y. 10464
• Phone: (718) 885-1810
• Hours: Monday-Sunday 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
• Prices: Italian specialties $21.99-$43.99; King Crab Legs (MP); Try Something Else Besides Seafood $24.99-$35.99; Sharon’s Pasta Pasta and penne a la vodka $15.99-$44.99; hot appetizer $13.99-$32.99; mussels $17.99-$23.99; cold seafood & raw $12.99-$44.99; Crabby Clams $20.99; Surf & Turf $34.99-$49.99; Feeling Crabby? $42.99-$63.99; Feasts $125.99-$138.99; Fried or Broiled $21.99-$41.99; whole lobster special $33.99
• Delivery and takeout available; reservations for parties of 6 or more.

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Here are nine New York eateries open on Turkey Day this year that we recommend, whether you want a traditional holiday meal or something a little different.

Café Boulud

For one of the most elegant offerings in town, head to highly esteemed Café Boulud, inspired by Chef Daniel Boulud’s family’s cafe in Lyon, France. The three-course prix fixe Thanksgiving menu at Café Boulud is predominantly French. For course one, choose from offerings like velouté de courge et sésame (butternut squash and tahini soup) and pāté en croûte châtaigne cranberries (duck, foie gras and chicken terrine with cranberry chutney). Enjoy “la dinde,” or turkey, with two types of potatoes for your main course. Finish off strong with tarte tatin (roasted apple tart with smoked vanilla ice cream).

• Location: 100 E. 63rd St., New York, N.Y. 10065
• Price: $155 for three-course prix fixe per person; $75 for children under 10
• Reservations can be made via Resy

Amy Ruth’s

It would be easy to argue that it’s Thanksgiving year-round at Amy Ruth’s, a soul food mecca in Harlem. Their home-cooked style meals, which include massive portions and one of the best chicken and waffles on the planet, will leave you heartily stuffed. For Thanksgiving, Amy Ruth’s will be running a prix fixe menu priced at $44.95, which includes either roast turkey (with cornbread stuffing and cranberry sauce) or cured honey-glazed ham, served with two sides and your choice of peach cobbler or banana pudding. Alternatively, you can opt for a dish off the regular menu.

• Location: 113 W. 116th St., New York, N.Y. 10026
• Price: $44.95 for prix fixe; regular menu available
• Walk-in only

Bell Book & Candle

Terms like “fresh ingredients” and “fresh produce” get thrown around quite a bit these days, but few in the city can claim it the way Bell Book & Candle can. Their aeroponic rooftop garden is the key to the West Village restaurant’s fresh seasonal fare. Adults enjoy a $75 three-course prix fixe menu while kids eat for $45. Start off strong with a pear and blue cheese salad or butternut squash soup before moving on to turkey with pan gravy, sourdough sage stuffing, Brussels sprouts with bacon and chive mashed potatoes. End on a sweet note with a slice of apple pie.

• Location: 141 W. 10th St, New York, N.Y. 10014
• Price: $75 per adult for three-course prix fixe and $45 per child
• Reservations available on their website

Delmonico’s

Fewer seats in town are as noteworthy as one at the country’s oldest fine-dining restaurant, Delmonico’s. The longstanding establishment is the birthplace of several classic Americana dishes, including the baked Alaska, eggs Benedict, lobster Newburg and, of course, the classic Delmonico steak. For Thanksgiving this year, they’re offering a prix fixe meal at $145 per person, with selections of some signature dishes like Oscar’s wedge salad and a 12 oz. eye of Delmonico. Additionally, they have Turkey Day specials like a Norbest family turkey dish and a rotation of sides for the table, including glazed honey carrots, stuffing, brussel sprouts and more.

• Location: 56 Beaver St., New York, N.Y. 10004
• Price: $145 per person for a three-course prix fixe
• Reservations can be made online

Cremini’s

If you’re craving Italian but still looking to try something new this Thanksgiving, head to Cremini’s, a small restaurant in Carroll Gardens focusing on cuisine from Italy’s Le Marche region. Enjoy a wide range of pasta dishes along with regional specialties like olive all’ascolana, or deep-fried stuffed olives with meat, cheese or veggies. To try the dish the restaurant is named after, you must order “cremini,” or fried cubes of sweet custard, served in flavors like chocolate, pistachio and lemon. Aside from their regular menu, Cremini’s will offer Thanksgiving specials, such as a “tacchino della tradizione” ($37), with turkey and classic fixings and sides; “sformatino di zucca” ($18), or butternut squash flan with smoked scamorza fondue; and classic homemade pumpkin pie ($15).

• Location: 521 Court St., Brooklyn, N.Y. 11231
• Price: Thanksgiving specials $15-$37; Full menu available
• Reservations can be made online

Skirt Steak

Turkey isn’t for everyone, and if you fall under that category, you might feel like quite the outcast on Thanksgiving. Luckily, Skirt Steak, which is right in the heart of the action of the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, is open on Turkey Day with a no-frills turkey-free menu. For $45, enjoy the same prix fixe menu they offer every day of the year, with a mixed field green salad, prime skirt steak cooked to your liking and endless handmade fries. For an extra $12, enjoy a rotating selection of sides such as stuffed mushrooms and roasted brussels sprouts. If you’re craving something sweet, add on some New York cheesecake, caramel espresso mousse or a black cocoa cake with maple buttercream.

• Location: 835 Sixth Ave., New York, N.Y. 10001
• Price: $45 for three-course prix fixe per person
• Walk-ins accepted; Reservations are available for parties of seven or more via Resy

Hoexters

Swanky yet cozy, old-school yet modern, and one of my personal go-to spots for a consistent, solid meal is Hoexters. Luckily, they’re open on Thanksgiving, meaning you, too, can enjoy this warm neighborhood haunt. Hoexters’ Thanksgiving special is priced at $120 per person, with classic offerings like roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, stuffing and cranberry sauce. For dessert, enjoy an apple crumble or pumpkin tart, and if you fancy a beverage, they make one of the best gin martinis in town.

• Location: 174 E. 82nd St., New York, N.Y. 10028
• Price: $120 per person
• Reservations can be made via OpenTable

Gotham Burger Social Club

Thanksgiving isn’t only for sitting down for a fancy meal. Sometimes, the heart wants what it wants, and what my heart personally always wants is a burger. After years of popups, Gotham Burger Social Club finally has a brick-and-mortar in the Lower East Side, and with their first annual Thanksgiving in the location, they will be open until 3 p.m. Since we all know leftovers are the best part of Thanksgiving, Gotham Burger Social Club has beat us to the punch with their Thanksgiving specialty sliders, made with roasted turkey, topped with stuffing and cranberry sauce and served with gravy (two sliders for $9). If you want to avoid turkey altogether, enjoy their “Gotham Smash,” which will quickly clue you into why Gotham Burger Social Club consistently has lines down the block.

• Location: 131 Essex St., New York, N.Y. 10002
• Price: Varies
• Walk-ins only

Bar Sprezzatura

If you’re in the city with a group of friends, couldn’t care less about celebrating Thanksgiving and are simply looking for a fun night (or day) out, a rooftop bar can certainly tick that box. Bar Sprezzatura is a little slice of Italian summer right in the heart of Times Square. Sip a select spritz for pure holiday escapism. For a great shareable bite, go for the Sprezzatura Tower, a platter made with a mix of appetizers of your choosing, with options like spicy big eye tuna cannoli and broiled artichokes gratinato. Bar Sprezzatura will be running a pasta special ($33) for the holiday, with roasted chestnut, ricotta, brown butter, sage, parsnip puree and guanciale, but aside from that, forget about Thanksgiving altogether with their carefully curated cocktails and warm, summery setting.

• Location: 790 Eighth Ave, New York, N.Y. 10019 (inside the Kimpton Theta New York – Times Square)
• Price: Varies
• Reservations made via Resy

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Run by couple Gabriele Lamonaca and Paola Sinisgalli, Unregular Bakery is the sister establishment to Unregular Pizza, which is just down the street. Unregular Pizza won me over years ago with their “burrapizza cafonata,” a square slice topped with hot honey, ‘nduja, burrata and pepperoni. Now, they might just win the award for funkiest pastries and lattes, if such an honor were to exist.

It all started in 2020, back when everyone entered lockdown and sourdough bread was really having a moment. Gabriele Lamonaca skipped trendy sourdough and made pizza instead. He would add “unregular” toppings and post photos on social media.

The posts started to garner some traction, so he started an Instagram account under the handle “unregular pizza.” Friends asked if he would deliver, so he did. But instead of accepting money, he would accept random gifts as “barters” in exchange for his pizza, which ranged from horseback riding lessons to hotel stays and even dental services.

Unregular Pizza eventually opened a brick-and-mortar in Union Square in May 2021. Having seen a fair amount of success, the couple decided to open Unregular Bakery in September 2023.

True to Gabriele and Paola’s quirky nature, the bakery is indeed quite “unregular.” You can opt for a 1,000 pain au chocolat, which looks like (and is) a bunch of mini-chocolate croissants all stuck together, and frankly, kind of reminds me of a brain; a “BombaSpritz,” where the flavors of Aperol spritz are incorporated into an Italian donut, or bombolone; or even a BurraCroissant — a circular croissant filled with burrata and basil pearls.

My hands-down favorite sweet treat at Unregular Bakery is the chocolate strawberry cookie. The dough is crisp on the outside and light on the inside, and the slightly bitter chocolate paired with the acidic pop of strawberries makes for an addictive bite. But I’m not mad at the vegan blueberry rosemary donut or the spicy mango bombolone, where they really don’t shy away from the heat-meets-sweet factor, with ingredients like chipotle, tajin and mango curd.

I also once had a vegan pistachio croissant dipped in chocolate. Though I was skeptical of a croissant sans butter, Unregular Bakery’s is flawless, and the crisp chocolate shell added great texture.

It’s no surprise every bite is just as delectable as the next: All dough is made in-house everyday.

I last went to Unregular Bakery about a month ago, and Gabriele warmly welcomed me with a “murtadel” sandwich, made with mortadella, burrata and pistachio pesto on a savory bombolone. It was my first time trying something savory from the bakery, and I’m happy to report the salty lives up to the sweet, which comes as no surprise since the slices at Unregular Pizza have yet to let me down.

It was with my meaty, cheesy donut sandwich that I finally tried the lattini, which comes in four flavors: cold brew (made with cold brew and milk chocolate — which is what I tried); green matcha (made with green matcha and matcha chocolate); strawberry rose (made with rose extract and strawberry chocolate); and blue matcha (made with lavender syrup and blue matcha).

All lattinis are iced, topped with cold foam (if you’re vegan or avoiding animal products, just ask for no cold foam), and three mini croissants. The result is an adorable, delicious pick-me-up that’s topped with a little treat.

Not only is Unregular Bakery able to exceed the satisfaction of either your sweet or savory tooth (or, if you’re me, both), but to this day, they still accept barters. Of course, they’ll be happy to take your hard-earned cash, but you can arrange to bring them anything from a bottle of wine to a homemade meal in exchange for some pastries and lattinis if they agree to the terms.

In any economy, but especially this one, that’s a good deal if you ask me.

• Address: 124 Fourth Ave., New York, N.Y. 10003
• Phone: (646) 422-7262
• Hours: Monday-Thursday 7 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; Friday 7 a.m.-7:30 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 8 a.m.-7:30 p.m.
• Prices: Croissants $4.50-$9; Bomboloni $5.50-$12; Egg Sandwiches $6-$11; Make Your Own Sandwich toppings range from $1-$5; Cookies $5; Coffee & Soft Drinks $2.50-$5.50; Lattinis $6.50-$8; Wine $10-$12 for a glass, $37-$45 for a bottle; Beer $8
• Delivery and takeout available; no reservations.

Have a suggestion for a great hidden dining gem in your neighborhood? Reach out to us with your recommendations